![]() I set it up in a lathe to check the concentricity and found that it was about 5thou out, I took a 5thou cut off the sleeve which leaves it concentric but still able to nip the new seal. I recently replaced this seal due to an minor oil leak, what I found when it was dismantled was that the original seal and sleeve were not exactly concentric to each other causing a slight wear ring on part of the circumference of the sleeve, the position of the chain cover is fixed by a couple of dowels so I investigated the sleeve. I can't think of anywhere else the oil could find it's way through than between the sleeve and the seal, if it's not possible then that it leaks between the sleeve and the crankshaft end. It will be interesting to see if I can get it tight this time by assembling it with the new sleeve and in correct order. The engine has not been sitting still as far as I know but been very little in use by PO for some years. I'll see if I can find a micrometer and compare the old and the new sleeve for the record. This was instead of and easier than fitting a speedy sleeve. The reason for replacing the sleeve origined from an advice here on the forum to be sure getting a smooth surface where the seal meets the sleeve. When picking it apart now the seal looked all right, no tear or damage visible or to be felt. ![]() My initial though when discovering the leak was that I had damaged the seal fitting it to the cover as I knocked it in place instead of using the press. Everything is easier on the bench of course. Can't remember any special problems assembling the timing cover with the sleeve in situ, it was well greased. I had the engine out of the car when this operation was done last winter. Did you measure the old and new sleeve and why did you need to replace the sleeve anyway, had this engine been sitting for a long time ? Installing the tapered sleeve last means it just slips in leaving the oil seal unharmed. ![]() ![]() I'm surprised that you were able to easily install the timing cover with the sleeve in place and I wonder if that did not distort or tear the edge of the oil seal since it would have needed to work to get it over the front edge of the sleeve. Could there be any chance of oil passing the sleeve (between the sleeve and the cranckshaft end)? The old sleeve was easily removed by hand, the new one seems a very tight fit in comparison. Surley I put the sleeve in before the timing cover and will try to put it on last this time. I've used non setting gasket dressing in addition to the standard gaskets for the cover and the sump. But I did overtight the screw last year and helicoiled a replacement. It looks like the oil came from further up than the machine screw at the bottom of the timing cover. The front cover to block interface can also pee oil when it gets hot if that gasket did not get some dressing in strategic locations also. I like to use a thin smear of non setting gasket dressing as insurance. In addition to the alu sealing block interfaces the timing cover will also leak if the flange is not flat and like the oil pan it might need a bit of hammer and dollying to get it to sit flat with no distortion around the bolt holes. Just lube up the sleeve and the oil seal with engine oil and slide it on pointy end first. PIAA, the sleeve does go in after the timing cover is installed. Thankful for any other refitting advice to get this spot free of leaks…… However I found this site (see link) at the internet where it looks like the sleeve is attached after the Timing Cover. I’ve got a new seal and a new sleeve to put on. I’ve not got the car in for this winters tasks and the Timing Cover is off to try to stop the leak. After overhauling the engine last winter I still got the dreaded oil leak from the Timing Cover around the crankshaft.
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